Many of the early settlers in Phuket were of Chinese descent. They were Fujian Chinese and became known here by their Thai name, Hokkian Chinese. They arrived from Singapore, Penang and mainland China itself. Originally they worked as tin miners in what is now the Cherng Talay area of the island. It was upon this industry that Phuket’s prosperity was originally built. Over the years, the Chinese and local cultures blended to create an exceptional fusion represented by Sino- Portuguese architecture, unique cuisine and distinctive dress and cultural traditions, which were then passed on from one generation to the next. Out of this melting pot of beliefs came new forms of traditional Chinese observances.

One conspicuous example is the merit-making tradition (this means performing charitable acts for the purpose of spiritual enlightenment and self enhancement) called the Por Tor Festival.

The festival is celebrated in the seventh Chinese lunar month, which approximates to August in the western calendar. The Chinese believe that the spirits of their ancestors – the hungry ghosts – are released for the month through the 'ghost door' so they can return to their former, earthly homes for a visit. This is contrary to Thai animist beliefs, which normally class spirits as portents of bad luck. However, on this occasion the event is characterised as auspicious. Por Tor Kong (who is also known as the Gwan Yin Goddess) is one of those responsible for releasing the spirits and offering them food and gifts to appease them. During the festival each clan worships its own ancestors, making merit to show their gratitude for the contribution their ancestors made to the development of the present-day community. At this time children are admonished not to leave home after six pm – it’s regarded as bad luck.

Special offerings of food are made to appease the hungry ancestors. Dishes of steamed pork, duck and chicken represent the wish for prosperity and plenitude. Yellow noodles symbolise the desire for longevity. Beautiful fruit carvings of animal figures and decorations of flowers with candles are offered. Incense is burned. An important and attractive feature is the offering of cakes made in the form of turtles – they come in all sizes. Originally they were made from semolina flour, and had a distinctive red dot on the shell. The turtle is a symbol representing long life, and the colour red, of course, is very auspicious for the Chinese.

You really shouldn’t miss the opportunity to observe this celebration. It offers a unique insight into the cultural richness of the island’s past

traditions. The festival is celebrated at the Por Tor Kong Shrine in the Bang Neaw district. This is in the central area of Phuket City on the road which leads to the Saphan Hin Mining Monument. Stalls are set up featuring local games like darts, shooting galleries and a fishing game, which is great fun for all ages. There’s a huge plastic tub filled with water and live goldfish. The idea is to try to catch the fish with a paper sieve. It’s harder than it sounds. Any fish you catch you can take home, but if you tear the paper and the fish escapes, then it’s game over, and somebody else gets to play. These games often offer prizes of stuffed animals and the like. They are, in the local view, a form of merit-making in themselves. Temporary shops sell souvenirs and with all this focus on food, there is plenty of it also on offer – including those delicious and lucky turtle cakes!

The shrine itself is beautifully decorated and plays are staged depicting the events on which the celebration is based.

This really is an event that encapsulates the fascinating cultural inheritance of the Phuket people.