Krabi

The stunning beach and sea-mountain scenery of Krabi is now famous, many visitors extolling some of the beaches here as amongst the most beautiful in the world.

This is a geographic extension of the karst sea mountains of Phang Nga, reaching south into deeper, clearer waters and thus offering fine snorkelling and diving. In the northeast monsoon season anchorages here are protected, though the region is completely exposed during the southwest monsoon.

First discovered by cruising yachties and backpackers some years ago, there are now several 5-star resorts and many restaurants. Yet in Ao Nang budget bungalow resorts still exist. The Sheraton and Centara Grand Beach Resort and Villas have opened on beaches north and south of Ao Nang respectively.

Krabi Town, with provisioning of a similar standard to Phuket available, can be accessed from Phra Nang by longtail boat or dinghy, or by road from Ao Nang.

Koh Hong Archipelago (Krabi)

The Koh Hong archipelago is a group of small islands between Krabi and the northern part of Phang Nga Bay, and east of Koh Yao Noi. Among the small islets there are many places to anchor for swimming or lunch but, generally, depths are not ideal until close in. Often it is best to use a light anchor and rope for easy recovery.

About 5 miles to the east is the mainland of Krabi Province. In the northeast monsoon season, overnight anchorage can be found near Ao Talen, approaching the coast until you find depths of around 6 metres.

In contrast to those of northern Phang Nga Bay, the waters here are clear enough for snorkelling, with visibility best at slack water in springs, or any tide on neaps. Many of these islands have fringing coral reefs rich in colour and marine life.

Larger fish such as Spanish Mackerel, Jackfish, Rainbow Runners and Barracuda readily go for trolling lines in these waters. If unsuccessful, you can always purchase fresh fish from the many local fishing boats.

This island offers a secluded anchorage – a useful stop over on the way to or from Krabi. It is acceptable overnight in the northeast monsoon season or in very calm weather. The best anchorage can be recognized by a mushroom-shaped rock in the middle of the small indentation facing south. Approach from the south until the bottom shelves to about 15 metres, and anchor on the sandy bottom.

Towards the western end of the bay lies a spectacular spit of white sand, which gives excellent access for swimming, exploring and beachcombing.

To the north of the sandy spit is an enticing bay, particularly good for snorkelling and diving. Anchoring is not advised here since large coral heads, rising from depths of about 20 metres, fringe the bay. It is best to take your dinghy from the recommended anchorage or else swim from the beach.

National Parks moorings are provided or the bay provides protection with good holding in 15-20 metres. In the southwest monsoon season an uncomfortable ground swell sometimes curves around the eastern headland. Koh Hong is so named because of its large internal lagoon, accessible only by dinghy across a shallow reef on tides above 1 metre.

This large Hong (Thai for room) has a small entrance which sometimes has gill nets strung across its width on the ebb tide. The Hong, about 200 metres across, is the biggest in the area, and the sheer cliffs on all sides make a picturesque backdrop for photography. You can swim in the hong at high tide.

East of the entrance to the hong is a superb silica sand beach nestled between two small cliffs. At the far eastern end of the beach and behind the undergrowth is a small entrance to a deep amphitheatre limestone cave complete with bats, stalagmites and stalactites. Bring a flashlight.

This is an excellent overnight stop during the northeast monsoon. Anchorage is in 15-20 metres, or take a mooring if your draft allows. During the northeast season, there is a small restaurant on the beach each day, and it will open for an evening meal, if requested, before sunset.

A beautiful white silica sand beach is broken by huge monolithic rocks that provide shade on shore all day. Fringed by a coral reef, this is one of the prettiest bays in the area but is not accessible at low springs by dinghy. A National Park Ranger station is ashore; the park entrance fee is 200 baht per head.

Rai Lei Beach (anchorage on page 59 of Southeast Asia Pilot) - Bill O’leary

Extracted from The Southeast Asia Pilot (3rd Edition) cruising/sailing guide by Bill O'Leary & Andy Dowden − www.southeastasiapilot.com