Vietnam
Apart from the Hong Kong to Nha Trang Race and a few intrepid cruisers, there has been very little activity for private yachts in Vietnam. Now the country has opened its waters up to cruising yachts and commercial charter activity started in 2006 with the establishment of a Sunsail Base in Nha Trang. The operation is currently suspended (2009) pending a new look at facilities for a base of operations. One problem of cruising in Vietnam is that boats must check in and out of each province having given an advanced itinerary − difficult to achieve without an agent.

The province’s 60-mile coastline encompasses 70 islands. With constant 8-15 knot afternoon breezes, clear calm waters and friendly locals, it has been a big hit with the yacht crews. Nha Trang is Vietnam’s premier beach resort town and its location and geography give clear skies and good weather between May and September. The town has many hotels and restaurants ranging from the basic to luxurious – and provisioning here is easy.

Within the cruising area are several resorts. Seafood can be bought or bartered for at one of the hundreds of fish farms. The islands south of Nha Trang offer dozens of protected anchorages for any season and the diving in the Hon Mun marine park area is equal to the best in Asia.

North of Nha Trang is Vung Fang Bay, which is populated by many small islands and has a massive sand dune along its northern side. Hidden away here is Whale Island, an eco-friendly resort that has done much to re-grow coral destroyed by dynamite fishing. In the past, yachts have based themselves here for weeks to take advantage of the excellent nearby dive sites and perfect sailing conditions.

It is still early days for marine tourism in Vietnam and entry procedures can be time-consuming, if not overly expensive. The authorities do place restrictions on boat movements but are loosening up slowly and local pilots are no longer required on foreign-flagged yachts full time.
Former Super-Yacht manager, Alan Goodman is based in Nha Trang and is the best contact for any yacht wishing to cruise these waters. He has been instrumental in encouraging a more open-minded approach towards visiting yachts by the Peoples Committee and local military officials. He can arrange all the necessary clearances, provide visas on arrival and more importantly fuel bunkering for foreign-flagged yachts. Email gmi@pacific.net.sg

In general, the ‘Change and Renewal Principle’ (Doi Moi ) has brought numerous changes in attitude and outlook. The overall willingness of the government and people to embrace new business opportunities bodes well for the future of the country. A marina is being developed further north at Da Nang and with this there is an expectation that soon the 300-mile stretch of coastline between Nha Trang and Da Nang will be open to cruising.

Nha Trang and Hon Tre
Nha Trang in Khanh Hoa Province is a major port on the east coast of Vietnam. The town itself is considered Vietnam’s most charming, being in the old French colonial heartland. Just offshore is the Hon Tre group of islands where there are some excellent anchorages, great scenery, good snorkelling and diving and good beaches.

This is the closest anchorage to Nha Trang town, located below the promontory just east of the main port. Authorities prefer boats to anchor here in order to clear in. Anchor in 7 metres on the outer fringes of the bay well outside of the marked shipping channel. The bottom is thick mud and affords excellent holding.

The beach and shoreline dries completely at low water spring tides, which makes dinghy trips ashore an arduous and painful experience. The rustic beach restaurant has even more rustic showers, toilets and the smallest beer fridge in Vietnam. The staff are friendly and helpful and will take care of your rubbish and laundry. They can also arrange ice and a taxi to town.

Water is available on the small ferry quay. Approach the dock at high tide only and in the early morning to avoid traffic, wind and swell. Tie off to the dock, bow-to and use the lazy lines in the water.

Originally the Summer Retreat for the last Emperor of Vietnam, before his abdication in 1945, the villas ashore are now run as a hotel. At US$25 a night, the furnishings have remained unchanged since the 1920s.

Anchor in 5-8 metres just to the north of the tyre-clad jetty. On the North West tip of Hon Tre Island is a seafood restaurant perched on the cliffs. Anchor well clear of the corner as it can be busy with shipping traffic. The Con Che Tre resort ashore is well worth a visit for a lunchtime or evening meal. Dinghies can be tied to the jetty or taken ashore at the small tidal beach. Good snorkelling can be found nearby.

We suggest in front of the small resort on the north shore, but anchorage is available inside the 10 metre depth contour anywhere around this small island to the south of Hon Tre. The island is popular amongst Vietnamese tourists and backpackers taking day trips from the mainland and, as such, can be busy with parasailing and jet skis.

It is much quieter in the mornings and evenings and the snorkelling is good on the south and east sides of the island. The resort restaurant is open only during the day.

Anchor in the channel between Hon Mot and Hon Tre in 10 metres. This small island is surrounded by coral and there is a shoal patch about 200 metres to the west.

The channel is easily navigable although there are hundreds of fish farms lining both sides. A nice lunch stop can be found in 10 metres on the south side in a quiet bay when the swell is not running.

Anchor in 6-8 metres in front of the beach at the head of the bay, leaving plenty of room to swing. This well sheltered indented bay on the south side of Hon Tre Island is free of swell in any season. Follow the bay up and round to the right, staying to the south of the numerous fish farms. Behind the sandy beach is a small resort guarded by a well-endowed white mermaid statue. The restaurant can open during the evening by prior arrangement only and serves a selection of seafood dishes. You can always try your luck bargaining with one of the fish farms if you prefer to BBQ onboard.

Anchorage can be found in 4-8 metres at either end of the north coast of this island lying south of Hon Tre. Hon Mun has very clear water and is popular with the plethora of dive shops based in Nha Trang town. The coral and variety of fish here make it one of the most visited diving and snorkelling sites in Vietnam.

Dive companies have laid mooring buoys at both anchorages but their boats usually disappear by mid afternoon. Feel fee to use them overnight. At the western anchorage there is a basic restaurant and a marine museum.

Extracted from The Southeast Asia Pilot (3rd Edition) cruising/sailing guide by Bill O'Leary & Andy Dowden − www.southeastasiapilot.com