KOH LANTA TO TARUTAO

From Koh Lanta to Tarutao covers 110 miles of coastline and islands, encompassing the three mainland provinces of Krabi, Trang and Satun at the Malaysian border. It includes Hat Chao Mai National Park, which covers 360 sq km and takes in 52 islands.

This area is popular for yachts travelling between Langkawi and Phuket − a regular run for non-Thai registered yachts checking out of Thailand every 6 months.

The closest airports are Trang and Krabi, which both have regular services from Bangkok; Krabi also has direct flights to Singapore. Overseas tourists and many Thai holidaymakers are now accessing the small resorts on the islands off Trang, which provide a wide range of peaceful protected havens set amid spectacular scenery.

The inshore islands south of Koh Lanta are characterised by a mix of steep limestone cliffs similar to the seascapes of Phang Nga Bay and Krabi and lower lying inshore islands. The larger island groups of Tarutao and Butang, on the other hand, are granitic outcrops similar to the west coast of Phuket and the Similan Islands.

Coral and small fish are plentiful and underwater visibility for snorkelling and diving ranges from 3 metres near the inshore islands, to 25 metres around the Butang group.

The islands closer to the mainland offer many protected anchorages in shallow water, similar to that of Phang Nga Bay. With its many secluded anchorages and protection in both seasons, the whole region offers itself for year-round exploration.

KOH LANTA

The islands of Lanta Noi and Lanta Yai are 14 miles from north to south, forming a bay protected from the southwest monsoon on the east side. Road access is via highway 4206 and two short ferry crossings − Ban Hua Hin to Koh Lanta Noi and Saladan Pier to Koh Lanta Yai − with an 8 km drive across Lanta Noi. In low season ferries may be infrequent.

Direct access by fast passenger ferries is available from Krabi and Phi Phi to the Saladan pier during the high season and from Bor Muang on the mainland to Lanta District Pier on the east coast all year round.

The Lanta islands are low lying in the north and hilly in the south. The small islands in the north of the bay on the east coast are reminiscent of karst stacks of Phang Nga Bay, but to the south are relatively flat.

Koh Lanta is fast developing from an alternative low budget destination, but still has many small, low-cost bungalows. This is unlikely to change until the island has a bridge or its own airport.

It is possible to anchor anywhere along the west coast in less than 10 metres. There are many new resort and bungalow developments, some easily seen from seaward on headlands and beaches the entire length of the island.

The west coast of Koh Lanta provides plenty of anchorages during the northeast monsoon season, but none in the southwest. The best protection and holding is in the northern bay of Hat Khlong Dao, tucked in behind the low rocky promontory of Laem Kaw Kwang (Deer Neck Cape). Anchor in the middle of the bay in 4-6 metres. If entering from the south, beware of the rock awash off Laem Yung headland.

Most beaches offer bungalow accommodation; limited provisions are available. Ashore are many bungalow developments and restaurants. The coast road is set back at least 500 metres from the beach.

One mile south is Ao Phra-Ae beach separated by a dangerous rock awash at low tide. There is a mooring available in 6 metres in front of the Layana Resort and Spa. This luxury 50- room boutique resort built, owned and operated by the very amiable Bob and Margie Guthrie welcomes yachties.

Five miles further south, mid island, is Hat Khlong Nin where the 200-room orange roofed Rawi-Warin Resort and Spa covers an entire headland and can be seen from many miles offshore. The hotel beach is littered with rock outcrops so anchor just south, go by dinghy to the beach and walk up from there. This is a huge rambling complex with some great restaurants.

Recommended during the northeast monsoon season only, anchor close inshore in 5 metres on a sandy bottom opposite the hotel resort. The Pimilai Resort and Spa is a 5-star resort nestled amongst the foliage against the beach. Visiting yachts are welcomed and can use the floating jetty at the north of the resort, which is dismantled and taken away at the end of each season. The top of the jetty is black and can get scorching hot in the midday sun. Tie close to the beach or wear shoes.

The river at the north of the bay leads to a waterfall and there are good restaurants ashore mid-beach behind the village and at the south end of the bay.

The southernmost accessible beach, also known as Waterfall Bay, has good holding close inshore in 6 -10 metres on a sandy bottom. At the north end is a river clearly visible from the sea, at the head of which are the Phru Bon Falls – well worth a visit. Further south the road stops close to the lighthouse at the ranger station for Mu Koh Lanta National Park.

Koh Po, off the eastern coast of Koh Lanta, offers good protection during the southwest monsoon season. The best overnight stop is the large area between Koh Klang and Koh Po, with secure holding in mud in about 5 metres.

500 metres north of the village on Koh Po is a very dangerous and hard-to-spot rocky patch which is submerged most of the time. The safest approach to this anchorage is from the south, leaving Koh Po to starboard.

Southwest of here, is the main town of Talat Lanta with the Post Office and Government Hospital (one qualified doctor on call) and a 300-metre jetty south of the stilted village, where ferries depart for the mainland at Bor Muang. This was the original settlement on the sheltered east coast before tourism made Hat Khlong Dao the most densely populated area.

Approach the new public jetty by dinghy only from mid tide upwards. Diesel and gasoline are available in small quantities. There are many food stalls and a supermarket near the jetty.

Koh Kam Yai offers excellent protection in both seasons. Do not attempt the passage between Koh Kam Yai and Koh Kam Noi. Approach from the south between Koh Bubu and Koh Kam Noi and anchor in the 5-metre basin where you see a small jetty. Ashore is an abandoned resort.

A perfectly protected anchorage in 3-6 metres is created by the vertical cliffs of Koh Talabeng and Lanta Noi. One of the only accessible Phang Nga-like islands of this bay, dinghy exploration is a must. Further north, the shallow mangrove river that creates the passage between Lanta Noi and the mainland is interesting and undisturbed, until you reach the ferry pier with highway access.