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Features : July 2009

Southeast Asia Pilot (3rd Edition): Extract
From Phuket to Ranong

Extracted from The Southeast Asia Pilot (3rd Edition) cruising/sailing guide by Bill O'Leary & Andy Dowden − www.southeastasiapilot.com

Freedom Beach, just south of Patong

Freedom Beach, just south of Patong
Photo by Bill O’leary

This chapter covers the 2 degrees of latitude on the Thai coast from just south of Phuket to the border town of Ranong in the north. It encompasses the four west coast provinces of Phuket, Phang Nga, Takua Pa and Ranong.

Many diving companies use the port of Thap Lamu to service the offshore islands of the Similans and Surin. Ranong Town is the gateway to the Mergui Archipelago.

From Phuket to Ranong

The west coast of Phuket offers some of the clearest water and most beautiful beaches in the region. Consequently, here you find the biggest concentration of hotels and beachside activity in the Andaman Sea. The advantages to any visiting yacht are obvious. But the lure of restaurants, nightlife, shopping, etc. may be offset by the buzzing jet skis and ski-boats.

In the southwest monsoon, the anchorages are totally exposed, with a short swell (as much as 3 metres), a beach break, and the occasional strong, onshore squall. There are no recommended anchorages on this coast during the southwest season.

Although the wind usually shifts to the northeast monsoon in late November, westerly squalls can come up as late as Christmas. In the northeast monsoon season, these anchorages offer perfect shelter in depths of 4-12 metres on a sandy bottom. (The best anchor is a Bruce or a Danforth, due to the harder sand lying just below the surface.)

The anchorages mentioned in this chapter are by no means the only ones on the west coast. Indeed, the entire west coast provides good shelter, generally speaking.

Later in the season, a low northwesterly ground swell can make the more open anchorages a little uncomfortable; though certainly not to the extent they become dangerous.

The northeast offshore breezes provide strong conditions in relatively calm seas, making for exhilarating sailing up and down the coast. The waters between the southeast tip of Phuket and Koh Racha Yai are often confused in both seasons, particularly when you have the wind against the tide.

Racha Yai Island

Racha Yai Island
Racha Yai lies 10 miles to the south of Phuket, with Racha Noi a few miles further. In local dialect they are often pronounced, and often written, as ‘Raya’, so don’t be confused. (Racha means ‘king’, yai is ‘big’, and noi means ‘small’).

The Racha is a 5-star resort in the North West Bay of Racha Yai which is the first development of its kind on the island. There are also a few bungalows and restaurants on Racha Yai, concentrated near the north of the island.

Longtail daytrip boats make the journey to these islands from Phuket, and beach umbrellas are set up in anticipation. Excellent diving, snorkelling, and fishing are to be found all around this group.

From Phuket to Ranong
This is one of the real tropical paradises of the area. A fine white sand beach is framed by a bay fringed on both sides with coral. The clear waters are a vivid aquamarine tending to turquoise. Most of the shallower part of the bay now has moorings and the only anchorage opportunity is in 10-15 metres on sand and calcified coral in the outer bay. Sandy patches do exist closer in, but care must be taken to avoid damaging the reef or fouling your anchor.

The Racha Resort has installed a high season floating jetty in the
southern corner where they run their boat operations from.

The diving and snorkelling are excellent. The beach is frequented every day by diveboats and daytrippers so, if you have crew leaving, opportunities for transportation back to Phuket are many.

The evenings are peaceful after the day-trip boats have departed, making this a delightful night anchorage, following a spectacular sunset in this west facing bay. There are several walking tracks to other beaches and across the island. Dive tanks can be filled on the beach.

From Phuket to Ranong
During the southwest monsoon, the east coast of Koh Racha Yai lends shelter for overnight stops in all but the strongest conditions. There is a deep water anchorage in 10-20 metres on a broken coral and sandy bottom. A few day dive boat moorings are available but are mostly too shallow for keelboats.

It also affords access to two small beaches with excellent snorkelling and diving, although sometimes there are strong currents. A pleasant, easy 20-minute walk takes you through coconut plantations to the north and west beaches. Ashore is the Ban Raya resort.

Racha Yai Bay

Racha Yai Bay
Photo by Bill O’leary

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