| Fighting the Wave |
| Catching the wave, paddling, lying on the top of board, then standing up and facing the waves are steps of he 'e nalu. So what is he 'e nalu? Just an old Hawaiian word that translates literally as 'wave sliding' or - yes - 'surfing'. |
Surfing is believed to have been pioneered by Polynesians who migrated to the Hawaiian Islands around 2,000 years ago. The nature of Hawaii serves surfers well - and, as we all know, they flock there in their thousands for the powerful reef breaks and the abundance of breaks and swells, especially along the north shore between October and March.
That's Hawaii. But what about Phuket? Well, we certainly can't boast a world-class surfing destination but, at the right time of year (May-October), Phuket's reef waves can present a challenge to surf-lovers.
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| Yusuke Maruta |
Joob or Chanin Aiyarak, President of the Phuket Boardriders Club and a local engineer in his early thirties, has been surfing for more than ten years. Born in Phuket, he has witnessed the development of, and the changes to, the island's surfing culture. "The best waves are mostly at the west coast beaches, such as Nai Han, Kata, Kata Noi, Kalim, Karon, Kamala, Patong, Nai Thon and Nai yang beache", he said. "For beginners, I'd recommend Kata and Patong beaches because the waves aren't too big and the sandy beaches make for soft landings".
Joob adds a cautionary note for would-be surfers: "Are you a strong swimmer? A good endurance diver? Are you afraid of your skin turning darker?"
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| Thomas Taatjes |
Many surf lovers come to Phuket each year to play in the azure sea, get a suntan and test their body's endurance and flexibility. One of them is Japanese surfer, Yusuke Maruta, age 22, who was on a two week-holiday surfing in Phuket.
I have no idea really why I like surfing, he said, looking nonplussed
at the question. "Maybe it's just facing into the beach, watching the oncoming waves behind me; I guess it's just the fun I get out of playing with something so powerful. Only other surfers really understand what a superb feeling it is". He concluded.
Yusuke started surfing at 14, when he took a quick course in Hawaii. Since then he goes surfing at every opportunity. "I just love the feeling of floating on the water's surface and fighting the wave with my two 'weapons': one 5'11 and one 6'3 'Thruster'."

Another surfer, this time in Phuket for six months, is Thomas Taatjes, age 22, a graduate of the University of New South Wales, Australia. Thomas has been surfing for seven years along different coastlines in Australia. With time after graduation, he decided to do some traveling and, at the same time, have a go at surfing in the Andaman Sea. "Kata and Kata Noi offer good beach breaks and are the most popular surfing spots in Phuket; Kalim, north of Patong, has a real nice right hand reef break that can get fast and hollow on good days", he said.
And what is it about surfing that gets people hooked? According to Thomas: "Surfing's a lifestyle, pure and simple. Even on days with only small surf, it's so good just to be out there waiting for the wave..."

On the dangers of surfing, Thomas was philosophical: "There's always danger in any sport. With surfing, it's 'unfriendly' marine creatures, sharp reefs and real heavy waves. But this is part of nature and, to be honest, it's what keeps surfing alive and interesting."
SHOPPING TIPS: Select the right board
Surfboards are divided into two main categories: long board, 7 feet and above with dull ends; and short board, under 7 feet, narrow with pointed ends.
Long boards are suitable either for big or small waves. They're designed to make more contact with the water's surface and they float better than the short boards. New surfers are recommended to use long boards - they're easier to balance on. A compact type of long board is the 'Mini Malibu', available in some shops in Phuket.
Short boards are for medium-strong to big waves and new surfers may find it hard to keep their balance. Expert surfers can control their short board as though it's a part of their body, achieving a better posture and therefore a better 'ride'. Don't go out and buy a short board until you've become proficient with a long board - it won't make you look or surf like an expert. Think: would you consider booking a Ferrari for your first driving lesson?
Where to buy a board in Phuket
Fishfins Club Design
Silang Boulevard 2nd Floor, Jungceylon Shopping Destination,
Patong Beach Tel: 66 (0) 8 1928 9292
Contact the Phuket Boardriders Club
Khun Joob | Mobile: 081-9565854 | Email: joob@phuketboardriders.com
Website www.phuketboardriders.com
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